Getting to St. Jean Pied de Port—Start of the French Route Camino Santiago—4/21/2024

 Early Sunday morning I took the first metro heading to the Madrid Charmartin train station at about 6:15 AM.

My 7:15 AM train to San Sebastian did not have a platform assignment until five minutes before departure. It was one of the faster trains they have, and was very comfortable as we crossed vast stretches of farmland in 5 hours.

We arrived just after noon and the bus station was just across the street from the train station. Once inside, I looked around for some bus going to my next location and that would be Bayonne, France, but there were no buses shown going there. I asked the clerk at one of the other bus lines which counter I should go to about purchasing a bus ticket to Bayonne.  She pointed to a FlixBus Sign that indicated I had to purchase the online and that they had nobody at this bus station. Well this would be a first for me. 

With my iPhone, I typed in the website of the bus company and then followed the instructions on how to get a ticket. It turned out the next bus would be at 2:45 PM so I had plenty of time to look for a place to eat and do a bit of touring before the bus left.  The procedure was pretty straightforward, but I only had a email confirming I had a ticket for the bus which included a QR code.

So I googled for restaurants in the area, and found one across the bridge called Patagonia and it turned out to be excellent choice with a cod curry and vegetable dish that was as good as it artistically looked.

After lunch, I toured the nearby church until it was time to return to catch the bus.  

Instead of seeing the familiar green bus logo in the designated platform, it turned out to be a contracted bus with a small sign that signaled I was at the right bus for my 3 1/2 hour bus ride that cost €14. It was a bit unnerving, but it worked.

I arrived at Bayonne about 6 o’clock for the train. It would take me to St. Jean Pied de Port, which was the start of the Camino Santiago.

There was no ticket booth instead I had to navigate a machine to figure out how to purchase the one hour train ride. A guy nearby walked me through it. I ended up with the ticket.

When we got on the train, it looked as though everybody was planning to hike the Camino Santiago.

I ended up sitting next to a fellow from Ontario, who turned out to be a physical therapist, so I got some free professional advice and how to best handle my problem knee.  He agreed that the stretching exercises I was doing would be perfect for taking care of my knee.  

I walked into town as most places were closing and stopped at the registration office for hiking the Camino and picked up my credential, which is used to be able to stay at the albergues  along the way. You also collect stamps along the way in this credential to show that you’ve hiked the Camino so when you get to Santiago de Compostela, you get a certificate of accomplishment.

The place  I was planning to staying at was full, so the women at the credential office arranged for three of us there to stay at the nearby Albergue Zuharpeta with a cost of €31 which included the blanket and breakfast.  It was a chilly 62° at night so I was glad to be able to get a blanket since I’ve only brought a sleep liner with me for the journey.

Quick tour of Madrid—4/19–21, 2024

 I left Seattle via the Light Rail to the Seattle Airport in the afternoon and checked my trekking poles in to Turkish Air because I was worried that TSA or some other airport security official would confiscate my poles. I then headed to the south end of the airport pre-check line, but it was closed so I had to go to the number four area for check-in and for the first time it took me over an hour to check in using this expedited system. The entire airport was filled with many more people than I had ever seen before.

Plaza Mayor

Unfortunately, I had a 14 hour layover at the Istanbul airport. I enjoyed their Turkish coffee, OJ, and baklava before relaxing at their quiet lounges with comfortable chairs until I decided to again stay at the sleep pod  area for four hours at €22/ hour of uninterrupted sleep before my early morning flight to Madrid.

It was a breeze going through immigration at the Madrid airport. I just followed the signs to the airport Metro, which would take me to the downtown  where I would transfer to the Alonzo Martinez stop nearest the Safestay Hostel where I stayed for two nights.

I use this time to do a little bit of touring and to get my discount card called a Tarjeta Dorada for all train rides which would give me a 40% discount.  After an hour wait, I got the card along with my train from Madrid to San Sebastián which is part of the trip to get to the Santiago Camino—French Route—hike of about 780 km—483 miles.  That ticket on a fast train was just €30 for a five hour ride and 353 km.

Once that business was done was a revisit to the Plaza Mayor which I had last visited back in 1963 while hitchhiking around Europe. I had dinner in the plaza and even ordered a calamari sandwich—something I first had on my 1963 trip—along with a seafood paella.

The old Mercado de San Miguel was extensively remodeled, and is no longer a local market, but rather upscale tapas bar offerings throughout the building and was packed with weekend celebrants.

 On Saturday, I went to the Prado and it took me over an hour and 3/4 to get in. Apparently Saturday is a big day for Spanish families to visit the museum quite a few hours and walked about 4 miles through all of the exhibits. Lots of Goya, Rubens, Velazquez, El Greco, Bosch, Raphael, etc. A couple of my favorites included Goya’s “The Executions” and Bosch’s “The Garden of Earthly Delights”—a triptych. I had seen many of these paintings during my art history class in college.  Many were more vibrant and bigger than I had imagined.  No photos allowed.

I visited the nearby Centro de Arte, Reina Sofia, specifically to see Picasso’s “Guernica” which filled a whole wall.  Fortunately, photos were allowed at this museum.  I was pleased to see other artists including Miro’ and Dali had many of their works on display.

I ended this short time in Madrid by attending a flamenco show near Plaza Mayor.

Plans for my Epic Camino Santiago Trek and Travel through Spain and Portugal--4/17--6/20/2024

I have finished planning and packing for my upcoming trip from April 17th to June 20th.  Just 3 days from now.

I will be celebrating my 80th birthday year by including hiking the Camino Santiago, French route. I plan to start at St. Jean Pied De Port around April 21st and complete it on May 12th and maybe later.  It is the orange colored route that is 483.7 miles (778.5 km) shown on the map above. 

After that I will explore Portugal followed by a return to costal Spain and Madrid for my return to Seattle. 

I am taking the Turkish Air flight from Seattle via Istanbul to Madrid using about 70,000 of my Capital One credit card points.

After staying in Madrid at the Safestay Hostel, on April 21st, I will take the metro to the Charmartin Train Station to take the 7:15 AM to San Sebastian.  This train costs about €37 and takes about 5 hours arriving at 12:35 PM.

I will then walk to the nearby bus station to take the bus that leaves at 1 PM, to Bayonne, FR that costs €33 and arrives at 4:30 PM. At that point I have a choice to either take the 7:30 PM train to St. Jean Pied De Port (SJPDP) for €7 and arrival  at 8:30 PM, or stay the night and take the 6:39 AM train to SJPDP to begin my Camino Santiago trek to Santiago de Compostela some 778.9 km (483.7 miles) away.  

For this trip I will be using Euros—€—for costs, kilometers—km for distances, and meters—m—for heights since that is what is used on the journey and in the detailed “Camino de Santiago Camino Frances—maps” guidebook that I used to construct my itinerary.  Thanks to my brother, Jim, who gave this to me for my April birthday.  I had purchased the heavier guide by the same author, John Brierley, that contained lots of narrative and weighed 9.6 oz.  The map guide weighs just 4.1 oz.  

By taking this lighter guidebook on my journey, I have saved 5.4 oz.  As you read below, a light pack weight is essential for me to have a more enjoyable journey.

Rick’s 2024 Spain-Camino Santiago Trek Packing List

Items in Back PackExtra books are 7-15 oz. each	Ozs.
Silver Bag- medicines, sew kit, pen, pencil, bandaids, business cards, whistle, nail file, safety pins, blades,, razors, masks, COVID kit,, magnifying glass, Lock, sleep tape	10.6
Gossamer Gear Minimalist 19 day pack.  replaced 8.4 oz utility pack	11.0
Red bag, deodorant, razor, floss, toothbrush, paste, Chapstick, eye mask , flashlight, ear plugs, Rx, comb, Body Glide, Itch cream.	15.8
soap, H2O2, suncream, towel in ziplock	9.3
handiwipes	3.1
Plastic widemouth 1 quart Bottle with duct tape and Steripen	4.2
Guidebook material—cut up portions of Lonely Planet guidebooks-Spain- Portugal	31.0
Cocoon Silk Sleep Sack & pillow	6.4
1 pr. socks, 1 underwear, swimsuit in ziplock	12.3
1 Hawaiian shirt, and Blue wind shirt	9.3
PJs,  1 REI Sahara Tee shirt	12.1
green bag: GoPro 2 batteries & 2 chargers, 3 connectors, 1 SD card, 2 plugs, shoulder mount	18.2
brown bag: Nikon charger & 2 batteries plug adaptor, headphone & plugs,  cards	11.1
Total items in Back Pack—9.6 lbs	154.4

Items Worn or in side bag	Ozs.
Salomon Runners, socks, Dirty Girl Gaiters	34.3
Gossamer Gear Trekking poles	11.1
L/S Bali shirt	5.2
REI Pants, bandana, underwear, security pouch extra credit debit card, money. passport	16.3
S/S REI Sahara tee shirt	4.7
Merino Hoodie	19.7
Topo Designs rain jacket	4.6
Wallet	3.6
Cellphone	6.4
Nikon W300 camera and GoPro 10 with cover	14.6
Chiang Mai side bag, mini iPad,-watch, folder with travel docs, calendar, and sunglasses.	47.7
Total items worn or in side bag—10.5 lbs	168.2

Here is my itinerary of this 2 month trip to Spain and Portugal.

Rick’s Spain-Portugal Itinerary 2024—blue denotes reservations made

4/1724 Depart Seattle (SEA) by Turkish Air to IST and then  to MAD—Madrid—WFPZXJ

Airline Flt # Date Depart Arrive Location

TK204 4/17 6:25 PM 4:25  PM(4/18) IST—-Istanbul—12h

TK1857 4/19 7:05 AM 10:30 AM MAD—4:25h—15 hr layover

1/19 AR Madrid at 10:30 AM

4/19-21 Stay at Safestay Madrid Central  ph:+34 914 45 03 00, cost $43 /night—$86-2 nights

4/21 LV Madrid—Chamartin by train to San Sebastian,  cost $39 at 7:15 AM -5 hours.

Take metro from Alonso Martinez stop to Chamartin stop—6:33, 6:42, 6:51 am —5 min

pick up Tarjeta Dorada at Renfe for 25% discount on train

AR San Sebastian by train at 12:35 PM—buses also leave at 12:35 and 12:40 PM—$7.

LV San Sebastian by bus to Bayonne, FR, at 1 PM, cost $33, AR 4:30 PM.

Option: LV Bayonne by train to St. Jean Pied De Port at 7:30 PM, cost $7, 1 hour. 

AR St. Jean Pied De Port at 8:30 PMOR

4/21-22 Stay at Hostel 20, ph:33 5 59 64 65 75, cost $36/ night—1 night.

4/22 LV Bayonne by train to St. Jean Pied De Port at 6:39 AM, cost $7, 1 hour.

AR St. Jean Pied De Port at 7:42 AM—start Camino Frances- Napoleon route trek

4/21 or 22 LV St. Jean Pied De Port to  Roncesvalles—25.1 km.

4/22-23 Stay at Roncesvalles Auberges, ph: 948 760 000, cost €12.

4/23 LV Roncesvalles to Zuriain—31 km—59.1 km.

4/23-24 Stay at La Parada de Zuriain Auberges, ph: 699-556-741, cost €13.

4/24 LV Zuriain to Puente La Reina—35.6 km—94.7 km.

4/24-25 Stay at Santiago Apostle Auberges, cost €12.

4/25 LV Puente La Reina to Luquin—31.4 km—126.1 km.

4/25-26 Stay at Casa Tiago Auberges, ph: 948-537-159, €12.

4/26 LV Luquin to Logrono—38.8 km—164.9 km.

4/26-27 Stay at Santiago Apostol, ph: 635-371-036, cost €12.

4/26 LV Logrono to Azofra—-35.0 km—199.9 km.

4/26-27 Stay at Azofra Muni Auberges, ph: 941-379-325, cost €10.

4/27 LV Azofra to Belorado—-37.6 km—237.5 km.

4/27-28 Stay at Parroquial Santa Maria Parish, ph: 947-580-085, cost €donation-€10.

4/28 LV Belorado to Cardenuela Riopico—36.6 km—274.1 km.

4/28-29 Stay at Via Minera Auberges, ph: 652-941-647, cost €8.

4/29 LV Riopico to San Bol—37.8 km—311.9 km.

4/29-30 Stay at San Bol Muni Auberges, ph: 606-893-407, cost €10.

4/30 LV San Bol to Fromista—39.3 km—351.2 km.

4/30-5/1 Stay at Fromista Muni Auberges, ph: 979-811-089, cost €12.

5/1 LV Fromista to Ledigos—41.7 km—392.9 km.

5/1-2 Stay at El Palomar Auberges, Ph: 979-883-605, cost €8.

5/2 LV Ledigos to Reliegos—43.7 km—436.6 km.

5/2-3 Stay at Vive tu Camino, ph: 987-317-837, cost €10.

5/3 LV Reliegos to Oncina de la Valdoncina—37.8 km—474.4 km.

5/3-4 Stay at El Pajar Auberges, ph: 677-567-309, cost €10.

5/4 LV Oncina de la Valdoncina to Astorga—38.2 km—512.6 km.

5/4-5 Stay at Sierra’s de Maria, ph: 987-616-034, cost €7.

5/5 LV Astorga to Acebo—37.1 km—549.7 km.

5/5-6 Stay at Meson El Acebo, ph:  987-695-074, cost €10.

5/6 LV Acebo to Valtuille de Arriba—35.4 km—585.1 km.

5/6-7 Stay at Acogida a La Biznaga, ph: 682187-093, cost € donativo.

5/7 LV Valtuille de Arriba to O’Cebreiro del Bierzo—33.2 km—618.3 km.

5/7-8 Stay at Xunta Auberges, ph: 660-396-809, cost €8.

5/8 LV  O’Cebreiro del Bierzo to Samos (purple route)—30.5 km—648.8 km.

5/8-9 Stay at Val de Samos, ph: 609-638-801, cost €15.

5/9 LV Samos to Portomarin—-37.5 km—686.3 km.

5/9-10 Stay at Casona de Ponte Auberges, ph: 982-169-862, cost €12.

5/10 LV Portomarin to Casanova—30.5 km—716.8 km.

5/10-11 Stay at Mato Casanova Xunta, ph: 982-173-483, cost €8.

5/11 LV Casanova to Salceda—34.5 km—751.3 km.

5/11-12 Stay at Alborada Auberges, ph: 620-151-209, cost €15.

5/12 LV Salceda to Santiago de Compostela-29.7 km-781 km (778.5 km = 483.7 mi official).

5/12-14 Stay at The Last Stamp, ph: 981-563-525, cost €20.

5/14 LV Santiago de Compostela by bus at 9:30 AM to Braga, Portugal, cost €10, 1:40 min

5/14-16 Stay at inBraga Hostel, ph: 351-253-033-546, cost €22.

5/16 LV Braga by train to Porto—Companha at 11:15 AM-AR 12:30 PM, cost €11.

5/16-20 Stay at Pilot Design Hostel, ph: 222-084-362, cost €22/night—4 nights.

5/20 LV Porto by train to Coimbra at 8:43 AM with AR at 9:52 AM, cost €11.

5/20-22 Stay at Serenata Hostel, ph: 239-853-130, cost €27 per night—2 nights.

5/22 LV Coimbra to Obidos by Expressos bus at 2:25 PM to 5:15 PM, €20

5/22-24 Stay at Fountain of Happiness Hotel, cost €51.

5/24 LV Obidos by bus to Lisbon, leaves every 15 min, cost €10, one hour.

5/24-29 Stay at Sant Jordi Hostel, ph: 35 121 014 6639, cost €33/night—5 nights.

Do tour of Tomar, Batalha, Alcobaca.

5/29 LV Lisbon by train at 10:02 AM to Faro AR 1:30 PM, cost €28.

5/29-6/1 Stay at Tilia Hostel, ph: 351-963-395-903, cost €33,—-3 nights.

Do tour to Cabo de Sao Vicente—end of Europe.

6/1 LV Faro by Flix bus at 11 AM—AR 1:35 PM to Sevilla, cost €12.

6/1-3 Stay at Black Swan Hostel, Ph:34-954-91-09-60, cost €63—2 nights.

6/3 LV Sevilla to Malaga via Cordoba by trains at 10:39 AM—AR 12:36 PM, cost €40.

6/3-6 Stay  at Feel Hostel City Center, ph: 34-952-21-82-68, cost €23/night—3 nights.

6/6 LV Malaga by bus to Granada at 11:15 AM—AR 1 PM, cost €16.

6/6-8 Stay at Black Swan Hostel, ph: 34-858-83-24-38, cost €21/night—2 nights.

6/8 LV Granada by bus to Valencia at 10 AM—AR 7:30 PM, cost €45.

6/8-10 Stay at Home Youth Hostel , ph: 34-963-91-62-39, cost €56/night—2 nights.

6/10 LV Valencia by train at 9:05 AM to Barcelona—AR 12:16 PM, cost €72.

6/10-14 Stay at Safestay Gothic Hostel, ph: 34-932-68-7808, cost €35/night—4 nights.

6/14 LV Barcelona by train to Madrid at 9:50 AM—AR 12:35 PM, cost €58.

6/14-20 Stay at Safestay Madrid Central  ph:+34 914 45 03 00, cost $43 /night—6 nights.

4/15 LV Madrid Airport (MAD) by Turkish Air to SEA via IST.

Airline Flt # Date Depart Arrive Location

TK1360 6/20 6:55 AM 12:15 PM IST—Istanbul

TK  203 6/20 2:10 PM 4:30 PM SEA

US Embassys

Spain:  Calle de Serrano,, 28006 Madrid, Spain, Ph: (+34) 91 587 2200

Portugal:  Ave das Forcas Armadas, 1600-81, Lisbon, Portugal, Ph: 351 21 727 3300

Currency Exchange Value—€1 Euro = $1.06 USD

km to miles conversions

km	miles		km	miles		km	miles		km	miles		km	miles
20	12.4		25	15.5		30	18.6		35	21.7		40	25
45	28		50	31		55	34.2		60	37.3

meters to feet conversions

meters	feet		meters	feet		meters	feet		meters	feet		meters	feet		meters	feet
100	328		200	656		300	984		400	1,312		500	1,640		600	1,969
700	2,297		800	2,625		900	2,953		1,000	3,281		1,100	3,609		1,200	3,937
1,300	4,265		1,400	4,593		1,500	4,921		1,600	5,249

800 km = 500 miles—- 25 mi/day-20 days, 20 mi/day=25 days, 15 mi/day=34 days, 10 mi/day=50 days.

After three separate meniscus operations with the latest caused by a careless Uber driver while taking my morning walk in Seattle October 2019, I am hoping I can comfortably take this long distance journey.  

Following my first meniscus operation, I had promised myself that if I could again walk normally, I would hike the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) a 2,660 mile trail that goes from the Mexican border to the Canadian border which I completed in 2008.  I guess this kind of injury prompts me take these epic journeys.  Here is a link to my PCT journey that I belatedly posted during the dark days of the COVID-19 pandemic:

 My Pacific Crest Trail Adventure

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