Finishing the PCT-McKenzie Pass to Columbia River--August 29--September 4, 2008

Section F.  McKenzie Pass to Barlow Pass—Aug. 29—Sept. 2, 2008

On August 29th, my early morning AMTRAK Coast Starlight was on time with a 1 PM arrival at the Eugene AMTRAK Station.  The information kiosk representative showed me where to catch the bus which would take me 50 miles out of town on Highway 126 toward McKenzie Pass on Highway 242.  

Before getting on the bus to the intersection of Highway 126 and Highway 242 the road to McKenzie Pass, I had a big lunch.  The bus was a commuter-type bus that only started its runs after 4 PM.  By the time I got to this intersection around 5:30 PM, there were almost no cars going across this little-used pass to Sisters, OR.   

I decided to stealth camp just off the Highway 242 intersection and try hitching in the morning. While in my sleeping bag, I heard very few cars drive by and most were heading west to Eugene.

On August 30th, I got back on the road about daybreak and saw that only about 2 cars passed by every 10 minutes.  After about 45 minutes I got a hitch from a sporting goods salesman who was making the rounds to stores in Sisters and Bend, Oregon.  He was intrigued with my lightweight gear, especially when I showed him my cat can alcohol stove, dirtygirl gaiters, and Gossamer Gear G4 backpack.

He let me off at the summit and the heavy fog prevented me from seeing the top of the Belknap Crater at an elevation of 6,872 ft which rose about 1,500 feet above the McKenzie Pass Summit or Mt. Washington, the elevation of 7,677 ft.

I began walking in this lava-filled area that more resembled what you would find on the moon rather than on earth.  I think some of the astronauts practiced walking around this 65-square mile area in their moon suits to get a feel for what they would experience.  

I quickly came to the burn area of 2006 and I saw the few green plants that were emerging from the ashes and burnt trees.

It was not until I got past Mt. Washington when the fog began to clear that I saw it through the burnt forest.

Looking back I enjoyed seeing Mt. Washington which I could not see in the fog as it receded as I continued hiking north on the PCT. 

The next mountain that came into view as I continued north was Three Fingered Jack Mountain. The trail came up to it on the west side and then the PCT rounded it to my camp for the night near Wasco Lake where I got my first glimpse of Mt. Jefferson.  I hiked 28 miles in 13 hours.

On August 31st, I woke up to a very foggy, frosty morning with the burnt trees glazed with frost.  I headed toward the unseen Mt. Jefferson.  

I dropped down from the burnt area and entered the forest and when I came to an open area, I got my first glimpse of Mt. Jefferson as I continued on past Shale Lake.

Milk Creek lived up to its name with its glacier silt waters. 

I then came to the popular Jefferson Park where I met up with a number of Labor Day hikers who were also surprised by this unexpected snowstorm. When it came, so did the fog as I entered the snow-filled Hood National Forest.

It was still foggy so I ended up navigating the Park Ridge snowfall by following the footsteps in the snow and luckily it connected with the trail some quarter-mile below.  The trail was snow-free after this snowfield as I continued on to Ollalie Lake where I spent the night.  I hiked 34 miles in 18 hours.

On September 1st, I was now in the forest on a fairly level path, but clouds of mosquitos followed me so much that I ended up wearing my mosquito head net, long sleeve shirt, and long pants.  I ended my long day hike at Crater Creek.   I hiked 37 miles in 20 hours.

On September 2nd, I woke up early and got my first full view of Mt. Jefferson behind me.

Section G.  Barlow Pass to Bridge of the Gods—Sept. 3—4, 2008

As I hiked toward the Timberline Lodge at Mt Hood, I enjoy the views of Mt. Hood.  I was looking forward to staying at this historic lodge and enjoying the big buffets.  I hiked 14 miles in 6 hours.

On September 3rd, after a big breakfast and comfortable stay at the Timberline Lodge, I began to make my way down the PCT to the Columbia River and the end of my PCT adventure.  

The mountain was out as I began my descent and soon came to the Zig Zag River.  It ended up being a night hike as I easily dropped down below the timberline to a forest trail with infrequent views.  

I was so eager to end this adventure that I walked through the night and missed the cutoff to the alternative trail that goes under the Ramona Falls.   

On August 4th, I got my first view of the Columbia River around 6 AM.  In the next two hours, I arrived at the signpost that I had been to back on August 7, 2004.  I hiked 50 miles in 25 hours. 

I made my way to the Bridgeside Cafe where I had a big loaded omelet, hash browns, a side of bacon, and coffee.  After breakfast, I went to the overlook and an Asian-American woman came up to me and asked if I was a thru-hiker.  I told her I had done it in sections and that this was my finish.  She said that she had completed a thru-hike the previous year dodging forest fires along the way.  

She ended up giving me a ride to the Portland AMTRAK station in time to take the morning Cascade train which got me to Seattle by noon. From there I walked to our downtown Seattle Condo.

Although it was a 2,660-mile wilderness hike along the Pacific Crest Trail, I enjoyed staying at 19 hotels, and 2 private homes trail angels opened up to me.  

In addition to 5 AMTRAK rides, I flew 3 times, took buses and shuttles 4 times, boats 3 times, and hitchhikes 17 times. Whenever I stopped in trail towns to resupply, I made sure to eat up at restaurants finding myself eating much more than normal.

After a hot shower, I weighed in at 171 lbs so I had lost about 20 lbs in 36 days of hiking during this 2008 portion of the PCT which covered 795 miles for an average of 22 miles per day.  

Here is what I normally carry in my pack and what I wear.  

Here are some useful websites for you to check out in case you do some of the PCT or other long-distance hikes:

1.  With this website, you can create different hiking speed and resupply scenarios on the PCT, but it is currently closed because of COVID-19.

https://www.pctplanner.com

2.  You go to this site to apply for a “thru-hiker permit”  so you do not have to register with every National Forest and National Park along the way.  I think you have to tell them you plan to do at least 500 miles.  It is free, but right now they are not issued thru-hike permits but do allow long hikes where you do not need to resupply to protect the trail communities from COVID 19.

http://www.pcta.org

3. Although I do not use this, many hikers do use this smartphone app to navigate the trail.  I use paper maps from the PCT guide books and a compass. Halfmile has worked with National Geographic and you can now go to the PCTA website to purchase these maps along with apps to use on smartphones

https://www.pctmap.net

4.  This site which is updated frequently tells you where to look for water which is a big concern on some portions of the PCT—-carrying 6 liters of water is no fun.

https://pctwater.com

5.  This site contains hiker journals from several long-distance trails where you can check out the trail conditions of those that have gone before you.  Plus you get their ramblings about gear, places to see and stay, etc.

http://www.postholer.com/journal/

6.  Yogi puts out good information on trail towns and what they have to offer, resupply tips, and some trail tips as well.  Her store also has links to vendors as well as information on the gear she uses.  She is one of the legends in the hiking community.

http://www.yogisbooks.com

7.  These are my favorite items after a good bandana.  These lightweight gaiters keep out much of the dirt and gravel from your trail runners plus they come in fantastic colors. 

https://dirtygirlgaiters.com

8.  This site has a link to most of the long-distance trails plus other information and past newsletters issues.  They have an annual gathering where hikers share their experiences on various trails around the world in pictures and videos. Throughout the year they sponsor "Rucks" around the Western states to educate hikers on gear, lightweight hiking, food choices, and general sharing of information They also award the Triple Crown to those who have completed the PCT, AT, and Continental Divide Trail (CDT).

http://aldhawest.org

9.  If you live in Washington State, you may want to check out the Washington Trails Association website.  It is filled with hiking information including trail reports provided by member hikers. They also sponsor trail maintenance opportunities with day or one-week work trips.  My daughter and I have volunteered for both day work crews and one-week crews.  It is a lot of fun with like-minded people who are doing some payback for the pleasures they have had on the trails.

https://www.wta.org

This concludes my Pacific Crest Trail adventure started after my recovery from a torn meniscus in 2001 when I set a goal of hiking the Pacific Crest Trail.  

“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.” - John Muir

I have recently uploaded all of my travel videos to YouTube now that they allow longer uploads and you may want to see my travel adventures there.  That link is

 https://www.youtube.com/c/huntforgold.  

If you do go there, please subscribe to my video channel since it will help me eventually get some income there and help with my future travels. Fewer people are using DVDs so I am transitioning to streaming my travels on my YouTube channel.

Northern CA with Volcanos and Geysers on the PCT---August 17--29, 2008

Section M Sierra City to Belden—August 16-19, 2020

On August 16th, I soon began the switchbacks up to the Sierra Buttes and beyond with an ascent of over 2,800 ft. Sierra City is far below the PCT trail. 

At the top of the Sierra Buttes area, I came across one of the few equestrians on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT).  She was just out for a day trip.  During the day, the Sierra Buttes range dominated the views.

I stopped for the night near Tree Spring.  I hiked 22 miles in 13 hours with ascents of 8,901 ft and descents of 6,586 ft.

On August 17th, it was a day of hiking up and down numerous gullies and switchbacks passing by Mt. Etna and along Bunker Hill Ridge. 

I ended the day near Fowler Lake after hiking 23 miles in 12 hours.

On August 18th, I crossed over the largest equestrian-hiker bridge in the entire PCT which crosses the Middle Fork Feather River at the start of the day.  

I had broad views as I passed Lookout Rock and ended the day near the Big Creek Road near Quincy.  I hiked 22 miles in 12 hours.

On August 19th, I enjoyed this early morning sunrise as I began my hike to Belden some 24 miles away and a 12-hour hike.

There were two ascents to Bucks Lake Road followed by Clear Creek Springs and then it was a big descent of 5,000 ft. to Belden.  There was a sign that the PCT north from here was closed because of a recent fire.  I decided to hitchhike to Quincy for the night since Belden looked kind of creepy.

I quickly got a hitch from a pastor from Tuolumne who was also a professional recycler.

I stopped by the Plumas National Forest Service office just before it closed to see if I could hike up the Indian Creek trail that paralleled the fire-closed PCT.  Rita, the ranger, told me I could hike it but warned me that it was an unmaintained trail and to expect lots of downfall trees and overgrown bushes.  

I then checked into the motel where I showered, washed my stuff, and went out for dinner in my rain pants and jacket while my clothes dried.  I had a huge steak, potatoes, and lots of beer.  

Section N. Belden to Burney Falls—August 20-25, 2020

On August 20th, after a huge breakfast of an omelet, hash browns, bacon, coffee, and grapefruit juice, I quickly got a hitch on Highway 70 north from Quincy up to Highway 89 from a union negotiator with the sawmill owners.  From there, I got another hitch from a couple—the guy was a game warden— to Belden.

When I started up the Indian Creek Trail it was a steep climb along Indian Creeks and the trail was clear.  Unfortunately, once the trail left Indian Creek in a series of switchbacks, I ran into a tangle of downed trees so much so that the trail was obliterated.  I navigated by walking along with the downed trees as I ascended and found trail markings by the previous cuts of downed trees.  

I spent the night near one of the creeks that flowed into Indian Creek after hiking for over 12 hours and just 4 miles.  

On August 21st, I continued up to the top of the hill where I rejoined the PCT.  Here are the signs that marked the closed PCT.  I also got my first view of Mt. Lassen.  That was a rough 4 miles of bushwhacking the day before.  From here I passed by some more burn areas on the way to Soldier Creek where I would spend the night.  I hiked 41 miles in 19 hours with ascents of 4,583 ft and descents of 5,548 ft.

On August 22nd, I was looking forward to a short hike of 4 miles to the intersection of the PCT with Highways 36/89.  I got a 17-mile hitch into Chester from a Forest Service Air Tactical manager who told me it had been a very busy fire season.  I told him about how I had difficulty hiking the alternate trail that bypassed the recent Chip fire on the PCT.

When I got to town, I saw lots of Forest Service and Cal Fire trucks parked around town as a staging area for other fires in the area.

I again enjoyed stopping at these trail towns for the comfortable hotels and big meals before heading out on the PCT.

On August 23rd, I got a quick hitch back to the PCT trailhead from a Caltrans tree faller in his old Land Rover.  He said his wife had seen me when I was in Quincy on the 19th and the day before in Chester. 

After two hours of hiking, I met the legendary “Yogi”— who was southbound.  She is a Triple Crown Holder—hiked the PCT, Appalachian, and Continental Divide Trails—and author of two PCT guide books—Yogi’s PCT Handbook Planning Guide, and PCT Data Book.

In the afternoon I entered the Lassen National Parks and hiked by a number of geysers, fumaroles,  hot springs, and pools beginning with the Terminal Geyser.

After passing the Hot Springs Creek, the PCT passed by the historic Drakesbad Guest Ranch.  Since the PCT guidebook mentioned that Drakesbad welcomes hikers for meals there, I decided to stop there for dinner.

Drakesbad established in 1880, was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2003, and the property was purchased by the National Park Service and is now run as a concession dude ranch within the Lassen National Park.  

When I checked with the receptionist, she said that I was the only PCT hiker on this day, and she invited me to use the hot springs pool before dinner.  She also said that I would join other guests to eat in the regular dining room rather than out on the deck when several PCT thru-hikers showed up.

I took a good shower before getting in the hot springs.  It was so relaxing.  I talked to some of the guests and it seemed like for many of them it was an annual pilgrimage over several family generations.

I joined a table of 4 for dinner from Minnesota and had come here at about the same time for the past 10 years.  They were really interested in my PCT hiking experiences.

It turned out that all of the beautiful waitresses were Russians on worker visas.  They would stay at Drakesbad during the entire summer and then at the end were allowed to visit other places for 2 weeks before returning home.  

Prime rib was served and my Russian waitress put two large slabs on my plate—she was experienced with the hunger of PCTers.  She told me for her two-week vacation before returning home was to go to San Francisco and Disneyland.

After dinner, I hiked about a half-mile to the Warner Valley Campground for the night.  I had hiked 19 miles.

On August 24th, I crossed the Grassy Swale Meadow with its boardwalk over the smushy part of the PCT.  

After passing Lower Twin Lakes, I took an alternative 4 1/2 mile trail down through the Cluster Lakes area and rejoined the PCT at Badger Flat. 

More of the PCT crossed fields of lava rocks.

I continued to hike after dark to reduce the time I would be hiking along this Hat Rim portion of the PCT during the following day.

I stopped and cowboy camped by the old lookout and radio tower after I had covered a very hot and dry 41 miles in 19 hours with ascents of 2,946 ft and descents of 3,776 ft.  It was a bug-free night so I didn’t bother with the tent and enjoyed the sky-filled stars before falling asleep.

On August 25th, I was amazed to see I was on top of this big Hat Rim ridge with the Hat Creek Valley below when I woke up.  I had hiked up here in the dark so I did not see it the previous day. I saw Mt. Shasta in the distance.

I was pleased to find this Trail Magic water cache left by a Trail Angel so I did not have to drop down to the Old Station Picnic Ground for water.

After refilling my two liters with water, I continued along this dry and dusty lined with lava flows.

After a very hot hike in the open Hat Rim ridge, the PCT finally drops off the ridges and I followed it to Highway 89 where I hitched a ride into Burney Falls where I found a motel and lots of food for the night.

On August 26th, I hitched back out to the PCT and began hiking to the Burney Falls State Park.  I first hiked through a burn area before getting to the falls which oozed water throughout the entire cliff area—amazing.  After enjoying the falls and the nearby ice cream shop, I continued on.

Section O. Burney Falls to Dunsmuir—August 26-28, 2020

It was another dry, hot day with temperatures over 90 degrees, and fortunately, most of the trail did not have any major climbs or descents during the day.  

I passed by Rock Creek and Rock Creek Falls along with several dirt roads that continued to cross the PCT where I continued to hear off-road vehicles enjoying these dirt roads.

I ended the day near Bartle Gap with its small spring.  I hiked 29 miles in 15 hours.

On August 27th, I began the day with a big climb of 2,300 ft to Moosehead Creek headwaters in just 5 miles.  From here I had a good view of Mt. Shasta which was near my destination of Dunsmuir just over 50 trail miles away. 

After circumnavigating the Butcherknife Creek Valley, I ended my day at the Doodlebug Gulch where I found some water and a stealth campsite.  I hiked 23 miles in 12 hours.

On August 28th, I was completing the California portion of the PCT.  During the day, I frequently saw Mt. Shasta as I continued to get closer to it.

After crossing the McCloud River Bridge, I passed by Ash Camp and the popular Adh-Di-Na Campground.

It was a day of big climbs and descents of 3,600 ft and then down by 2,500 ft followed by ups ad downs of 1,500- 2,500 ft.

As I got down to under 3,500 ft. elevation, I began walking through what looked like a war zone of logging filled with bulldozer-wide paths and dusty roads.  It was a pretty disappointing ending to my PCT hike in California. 

When I reached the I-5 freeway, I ended up getting a hitch from a California Highway Patrol who told me it was illegal to hitchhike here.  After checking his computer for any outstanding warrants, he gave me a 3-mile ride up to Dunsmuir.

I had hiked 33 miles in 17 hours with ascents of 5,331 ft and descents of 7,280 ft.

I bought an AMTRAK ticket for $40 from Dunsmuir, CA to Eugene, OR that was scheduled to arrive at 5 AM and get me to Eugene at 12:30 PM.

I checked into the Cedar Lodge for the night and enjoyed a hot shower, washed my clothes, and enjoyed a big meal before getting to bed early for the early departure.

I was stopping at Eugene, OR to complete my Pacific Crest Trail adventure from the McKenzie Pass to Bridge of the Gods portion I had earlier missed of a wildfire closure back in 2006.  

On August 29th, I was surprised that the Coast Starlight was on time going north Eugene compared to when I traveled from Seattle to Dunsmuir back in 2005. 

The next entry will describe my last portion of hiking the PCT from McKenzie Pass to the Bridge of the Gods, OR.

I have recently uploaded all of my travel videos to YouTube now that they allow longer uploads and you may want to see my travel adventures there.  That link is

 https://www.youtube.com/c/huntforgold.  

If you do go there, please subscribe to my video channel since it will help me eventually get some income there and help with my future travels. Fewer people are using DVDs so I am transitioning to streaming my travels on my YouTube channel.