Monday, June 28, 2021

Acropolis Looms Over Athens—June 21-27, 2021

Here is the first view I had of the Acropolis from the 6th-floor bar at the Safestay Hostel.


 My Iberia flight went without any problems and was about half full.  I found out at the Angelina hostel in Dubrovnik that I needed to file a COVID document with Greece—something that Kiwi or airline did not tell me about when I booked. I had tried about 20 times without success and started making screen prints of my attempts.  

Finally while waiting for the transfer to Terminal 1 in Madrid, I finally got to apply but it did not let me do the 21st, so I just entered the 22nd.  After some discussion at the Terminal 1 Ryanair ticket counter and later when I was in Greece, I was able to proceed to Athens on the Metro after a bit of discussion with the officials.




Like Seattle, Athens has an efficient metro line that takes you from the airport to downtown Athens.  My hostel was just two blocks from the Monastiraki Square metro stop—about a 40-minute ride for about 6 Euros.


The Safestay Hostel was clean and pleasant and I booked an 8 bed—4 bunks—mixed-gender room for under $10 per night. Each room had a private bathroom that was clean and modern with hot showers.  Unlike Croatia, in Athens they want you to put your used toilet paper in the bathroom bins to lessen the burden on their wastewater system.  There was a large reception area, a kitchen, laundry, and breakfast for 5 Euros.  The best part was the rooftop bar with a fabulous view of the Acropolis complex.  Happy Hour was from 4-7pm with half-price drinks—4 Euros for two beers for me.



Since I hadn’t slept much on my two-day journey from Croatia>Spain>UK>Greece, after dinner, I crashed for about 9 hours of sleep and ended up having lunch and then proceeded to do the Lonely Planet walking tour that took me by lots of old ruins and notable places.  I planned to get the 5-day Acropolis ticket the following day which included entrance to some of these ruins.  You really did not need to enter these ruins to see them.


Early the following morning I began my Acropolis trek up to view the Theater of Dionysus, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, through the Propylaia, the Temple of Athena Nike,  Parthenon which is under renovation, Erechtheion, with the Porch of the Caryatids, along with others.  When you arrive at the Propylaia you begin to follow a one-way route through the Acropolis which wasn’t really needed because the crowds were fairly thin, but rules are rules.   It is hard to believe that these structures and communities were here back as far as 524 BC.


Theater of Dionysus



Propylaia


Parthenon


Temple of Athena Nike




Porch of the Caryatids


Theater of Dionysus


Odeon Herodes Atticus Theater.



The Theater of Dionysus had over 17,000 spectators for productions of Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, and Aristophanes between 342 and 326 BC.  


Over the centuries they were wars were from Persians, Romans, Ottomans, Sicily, Syria, Byzantine, Crusaders, Macedonia, Turkey, World War I,  and World War II ending with the Greek Civil War from 1946 to 1949.,


When you consider all of the advances in arts and letters, engineering and science, democracy and politics, and its decline, I begin to wonder with all of the current divisive issues in the US, that we may too decline as the Greeks have done in centuries past, after all, we are just 245 years old.


The Acropolis Museum was another amazing place to visit where they had built the museum on piers over the uncovered village ruins.  They had a video that showed the excavation of the ruins along with how they constructed the museum over the ruins.  During construction, they put sand and gravel over the ruins to protect it while under construction.


The museum featured several eras of sculptures, and wall reliefs along with videos packed full of information.  They featured the actual five Caryatids from the Acropolis.  The ones on the Acropolis are copies,  One actual one is currently in the British Museum.  I wonder how long it will take for Britain to return it.  I had lunch at the restaurant which was tasty and also had a great view of the Acropolis from its deck.






Here are the ruins under the museum with the support piers.



There were several other ruins I visited and enjoyed seeing the Ancient Angora site with its Stoa of Attalos and the Agora Museum.  It contained the Winged Victory along with the head of the founder of History.  My brother would like this since he is the retired Chair of the History Department at Whitworth University in Spokane, WA.



My brother’s first historian.






Tower of the Winds—Agora



On my last day in Athens, I enjoyed a hammam—spa treatment—which was an hour and a half treatment beginning with a wash, sauna followed by a soapy bath.  The masseur used a rough glove to defoliate me followed by a half-hour massage.  I then cooled off with another cool water shower using bowls dipped into one of the many marble sinks.  Afterward, I cooled off in a big room before getting dressed.  After that, I went outside to rest and was given some green tea, water, and some Turkish delights.  It was a most enjoyable experience for 45 Euro plus a 10 Euro tip.  




I finished off my tour of Athens by taking the metro to the Piraeus piers where I bought a ticket on the Blue Star Ferry top Syros, my first Greek island experience.  It leaves at 7:30 am and the metro from my hostel takes just 1/2 hour.


Of course while in Athens, I enjoyed many different Greek foods.







I have recently uploaded all of my travel videos to YouTube now that they allow longer uploads and you may want to see my Peru Adventures there as well as my other travel videos.  That link is https://www.youtube.com/c/huntforgold 

If you do go there, please subscribe to my video channel since it will help me eventually get some income there and help with my future travels. Fewer people are using DVDs so I am transitioning to streaming my travels on my YouTube channel.

Sunday, June 20, 2021

Dithering in Dubrovnik—June 14-20, 2021

 After a big breakfast at the “One-Eyed Pig” restaurant near the piers, I boarded the Kirlo catamaran for the 4 1/2 hour down to Dubrovnik with several stops at some of the Adriatic Islands along the way.

Old Town Dubrovnik view from the cable car landing.


One-Eyed Pig Cafe




Our first stop was Brac followed by Hvar which I had visited on a day trip from Split.  This boat had an open-top deck which was great to use for taking pictures and being able to take off the mask.  There were not very many passengers on this boat which was similar to all of my public transportation experiences.








The third island stop was Korcula which was a walled town followed by a stop at Pomona.



Our final stop was Dubrovnik and as we came into the harbor, we saw a huge cruise ship docked on our same pier.  


From there it was a short walk to the bus stop that took me to the Pile neighborhood stop about 4km from the piers.  As I got off the bus, the walled old town of Dubrovnik was right before me complete with a drawbridge I crossed to get into town.



As you enter the old town from here you immediately see the long and broad Placa (Stradun) with the nearby Big Onofrio’s Fountain built in 1438, where the gargoyles spew water from their mouths from a water source some 12km distance.  




It was obvious the cruise passengers were in a town noted by their audio tape machines, ID tags around their necks clustered around their tour guides speaking to them in their different languages—English, French, German, etc.  Despite this cruise ship crowd, most of the restaurant tables were empty.  The staff is hoping July and August will be better.


I was staying at the Angelina Hostel which was a big climb up the stairs in the northeast corner of the walled city by the Minceta Fort.  Once I got there they had a sign that said it was closed and for accommodations go down to their annex which was near the Cathedral. 



This turned out to be a much better location since it would not require climbing all of those stairs at least daily and it was near many restaurants and places to tour.




The manager, Annamarija, told me their other hostel was closed because they did not have enough travelers.  The place, with 40 beds and a big patio and kitchen was very clean and comfortable.  My room has 5 bunks and is a mixed dorm.  About half of the travelers are from the US, others are from France, Germany, Argentina, Ukraine, Spain, and Taiwan.


I was planning to stay here for about 3 days, but when I went to the Autobus station, I learned that all of the international buses to Montenegro had been canceled because there were too few travelers.  


I then went online and found out the same was true when crossing to Albania, North Macedonia, and Greece.  Some said I could catch a bus to Bosnia and another to Montenegro, but were not sure about traveling through other countries south.  I talked to Iliana from Ukraine and she was planning to fly to Greece from here and that all planes to Greece first routed you to the Northern European countries.


I went online and found a flight that would take me to Madrid>London>Athens for $109 on June 20th with a combination of Iberian and Ryan Air so I booked it.  I then had to fill out COVID information documents for both Spain and the UK which I have to finish completing once I receive my seat assignments.  Such paperwork.  I also have to get a COVID test for my pass through the UK.


I extended my stay here for a full week which included a day tour to Montenegro. 


The city has produced a map available at the Tourist Office and at our hostel which shows a variety of walking tours to various attractions throughout the old town and broader city.  


I took the wall walk around the perimeter of the old city and enjoyed some spectacular views.  The brighter and newer roof tiles replaced the ones that were damaged during the Homeland War from the bombing by the Yugoslavian military despite protest from UNESCO since it was a World Heritage site.  Over 2,000 shells pummeled Dubrovnik between 1991-2.  Also, the Srd that is on top of the 412m high hill containing communications equipment was attacked and bombed.  There is a photo exhibit of this war in the Fort Imperial which still has bullet and bomb markings on the walls.  The people of Dubrovnik endured and rebuilt after the war.





Fires from the bombing during the Homeland War.





The harbor provides the gateway to the surrounding islands including Lokrum which I visited with its many rocky shores for swimming and peacocks roaming freely, especially around the Monastery area.






It also has a number of restaurants and one by the “Dead Sea” kids were frequently jumping off the rocks to the amusement of me and other customers.





They even had a leftover throne from the “The Game of Thrones” movie set in the Monastery.


Because of the lack of tourists, several restaurants were offing discounts from 20 to 50%.  I took advantage of this by enjoying some excellent meals of meat and seafood that were well plated and tasty as well.  The filet mignon was just $15USD.








I enjoyed a brisk swim in the Adriatic Sea near the Buza Gate where you could jump off the rocks into the sea from 1 to 10 meters.  I chose the one-meter jump and enjoyed others going off the highest rocks.





There were so many various churches to view and many were built in the 1400s.  Over the Pile Gate with the drawbridge is the patron saint of Dubrovnik, St. Blaise, who is shown holding the city in his hands.  He was a 4th-century martyr.


This was a perfect backdrop for the filming of the “Game of Thrones” and they have tours to the filmed spots and thrones for picture taking.  It makes me want to see the series to see how they have incorporated the city into the movie.  I saw a similar thing in Morocco.


They have a variety of museums to choose from and I went to the “War Photo Limited” Museum, the “Dubrovnik During the Homeland War, and  “Love Stories Museum” which was a counterpoint to the “Museum of Broken Relationships” I saw in Zagreb.  


War Photo Limited Pictures





The Love Stories Museum contains post-it notes of love messages along with stories.





Homeland War




Salvador Dali Museum






While here there was a football match between Croatia and Czech which ended in a draw, but most restaurants have pulled out TVs for their enthusiastic fans.



My next destination will be Athens by air via Madrid and London.  Turns out there are no nonstop flights to Athens from here.  After getting the ticket, I wish I would have routed myself through Germany since my UK transfer required me to take a COVID test.  Fortunately, the Dubrovnik Airport has a rapid antigen test at the Departures area of their airport that operates from 6 am to 8 pm. It took just 15 minutes and 200 Kuna to get them printed and emailed results.




I have recently uploaded all of my travel videos to YouTube now that they allow longer uploads and you may want to see my Peru Adventures there as well as my other travel videos.  That link is https://www.youtube.com/c/huntforgold 

If you do go there, please subscribe to my video channel since it will help me eventually get some income there and help with my future travels. Fewer people are using DVDs so I am transitioning to streaming my travels on my YouTube channel.