I am finally getting my trip to Central America after I canceled my plans in 2018 due to big civil unrest in Nicaragua where student protestors were being shot indiscriminately by police and bands of thugs were boarding buses to rob people. I had planned to visit a friend of my brother and niece in Nicaragua, who owns a coffee plantation, but they escaped to California to wait out the craziness.
Antigua Street view of Volcano Agua
I once again used my packing list to fill my Gossamer Gear Utility back with 7 1/2 lbs of travel stuff including 3 pocketbooks. At the last minute, I left my Merino black hoodie behind after checking the temperature highs and lows which saved me about 1 1/2 lbs. This lightweight travel backpack will simplify travel.
Since my United flight did not leave Seattle until just before 7 AM on July 26th, I was able to catch the first light rail from the Westlake station at 4:55 am Despite the news about crowded airports and canceled flights, I made it quickly through TSA screening using my TSA pre-screen in time to have a breakfast sandwich before boarding for the first leg of my travels to Houston airport.
Shortly after departing the Seattle area, I saw lots of wildfire smoke blanketing the Western part of the US.
The flight was on time and a bit bumpy as we approached the Houston Airport and my departure gate was just a few paces away from my arrival gate. By now most of the restaurants at the airports have recovered from the ravages of the industry caused by COVID-19. All of the restaurants throughout this gate area have you using the QR codes on your cell phones or using their kiosks located at every seat in the area. There were no simple seats and you could use these kiosks to have the various restaurants deliver your food and beverage orders. I did not like this one bit and perhaps this was the restaurants' way of managing the difficulty and lack of staffing after COVID-19. The food—-chicken broccoli pasta was flavorful with a huge serving but expensive.
The flight to Guatemala was full as well as the earlier flight as I sat near the back of both planes.
Passing through immigration and customs where my COVID-19 vaccination records were checked was a breeze. The Los Lagos Hostal was near the airport and after I found the ATM machines in the parking garage, and began walking out of the garage instead of the normal passenger exit.
I forgot to download the map.me of Guatemala and google maps on my iPhone so I ended up walking about a while and asking people along the way to find the hostel. At first, I walked right by the unmarked street where the hostel was located because it was a gated community. When I realized I had gone too far, I backtracked and sure enough, the guard told me the hostel was just down the street and he buzzed me in.
The three of us were in a mixed dorm with no bunks fortunately for me. The guy from Holland left at about 3:30 am and I did not hear him. The breakfast which was included was coffee, scrambled eggs, and black beans and was the first of many to come. I left just as the French woman was coming down for breakfast.
It was an easy short walk to the Airport, but when I got to the baggage claim and exit area, I did not see any buses for either Guatemala City or Antigua as claimed by the Lonely Planet guide that indicated there would be hourly buses to Antigua. I guess COVID-19 eliminated that mode of transport. I figured I had two choices, take a taxi to a bus station bound for Antigua or take a taxi to Antigua.
I took the 2-hour taxi with Luis for 300 Quetzals—$40 USD—which took us over mountain passes of over 6,000 ft. to Old Antigua that featured low buildings with cobbled streets. Most of the restaurants and hotels had beautiful interior courtyards.
The tree-lined plaza was rimmed by government buildings and the remains of the Cathedral de Santiago began in 1545 and were damaged by the 1773 earthquake with only the front part rebuilt.
Beginning Friday, Antigua began filling up with tourists from Guatemala City including this family who was celebrating Carina’s quinceañera —celebrating her 15th birthday with this beautiful gown—throughout Antigua by taking pictures everywhere.
I stayed at the Ojala Hotel in 4 mixed dorms with breakfast included for about $20 USD. It had two beautiful courtyards and the beds were very comfortable with big down comforters, reading lights, and plugs for recharging along with a lockable storage area under the bunk beds.
I walked up and down the cobbled streets and looked at the many interior courtyards of the restaurants and hotels.
The fast food places found in the US had modest signs announcing their presence. Why would anyone eat there when there are so many local choices for dining?
After dinner at Torocolli, I encountered another big downpour and lightning storm. I quickly made my way back to the Ojala Hotel wearing my rain jacket which kept me dry above, but my pants and shoes were soaked. After taking a shower and washing my shirts, I made it in time to Zoom into my Grandview HOA meeting as the downpour continued through the night.
By morning, the sun began drying everything out as I had another coffee, eggs, black bean, and tortilla breakfast before heading down to the market and bus station.
On the way, I stopped for a 50 Q haircut at one of the many barber shops.
The market was bursting with tourist trinkets, woven clothing, assorted household items, vegetables, flowers, fruits, and meats.
Just past the market was the local bus station which was a mystery to me. It was a collection of elaborately decorated buses to run down yellow school buses that showed the destinations. I was looking for buses to Panajachel but I did not find any. This would be one of my future destinations. I would save asking around about such buses when I was ready to go there.
I had originally planned to visit some neighboring areas by the Lago de Atitlan, but I decided to take the night bus from here north to Flores, the jumping-off spot to the Tikal ruins, and then return to Antigua and visit those places before I joined up with my 17-day trip with Intrepid Tours through Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica. After the Intrepid Tour, I would spend about 2 more weeks In Costa Rica before returning to the US.
I bought the night 1st class bus at the Ojala Hotel for 400 Q that leaves at 6:30 pm with a morning arrival in Flores by the Lago de Peten Itza and just an hour from the Tikal Ruins, the number one tourist attraction in Guatemala. This beats figuring out the bus to Guatemala City and onward to Flores—I guess I am no longer up to the challenges of finding the local bus routes here in Central America after trying to travel there back in 2018.
I spent my days walking up and down the various Avenidas and Calles and looking at the many church ruins.
While there, I found a few rooftop bars and restaurants, but most of the views were obscured by rain clouds.
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