Rediscovering Ko Samui—February 2–9, 2022

This restaurant area has replaced the Coconut Resort Bungalows that I had stayed at the last time I was on Ko Samet.

When I got to the Bangkok Train Station for my night train to Surat Thani on February 2nd, I was disappointed to see that none of the restaurants were open I was planning to eat so I went outside and found a street stall that was selling chicken satay at 10 Baht per stick and that was it for dinner.

When I returned to the station, I looked on the Departures bulletin board, and I did not see my train listed.  I then went up to the ticket booth, and the representative told me to go take a seat in the roped-off area where a few people including a monk were sitting. It turned out we would not be boarding a train here, but rather we were to take a minibus to the Bang Bumru Train Station, about an hour south of here.

After a few officials milled about, we were directed to board a minibus since our train was not able to come to this station. I am not sure where I was supposed to go so I just followed this monk in our group of travelers since he was easy to spot.

Here is my bottom bed on the night train and had a comfortable sleep that cost just 808 baht—about $24 USD.  It is another 360 for the bus/ferry combo to Ko Samui.

Our train got into Surat Thani about two hours late so I  missed the earlier connection to Ko Samui. After this veggie omelet with croissant, coffee, and mango share I caught the bus/ferry combo to the island which got me there at about 3:30 PM. No worries about finding accommodations since there are few tourists around—just a pair of Swedes so far.

The Surat Thani Ferry is approaching Ko Samui.

When I got to the ferry landing, a shuttle bus driver wanted 300 baht to take me to Hat Lamai. I told him that was too much and more like the cost of a private taxi.  

I decided to walk out to the main road and see if any songthaew were making the routes around the island like I saw when I was last here about 15 years ago.  After waiting about 5 minutes a woman in the nearby house asked if I wanted her to contact a moto-taxi.  I told her that would be good.  While waiting the shuttle bus driver came by and lowered his price for a ride to 200 baht.  I told him it was too late and still not low enough.  Shortly afterward a bright yellow motorbike showed up to take me to Hat Lamai for 200 Baht.  I asked if he could take me for 150 and he pulled out a price sheet that gave the cost as 250 baht.  So he was giving me a “bargain”.  We both put on helmets for the 30km ride which took about 1/2 hour. 

The last time I was here, I rented a moto bike, but with this increased traffic, it looked too dangerous for my taste.  Fortunately, he was a moderate driver and just went with the flow of the heavy traffic.

In 15 years, Hat Lamai had grown considerably and the entertainment places I enjoyed back then were no longer in business.  Looking down the beach road, it was apparent that many other businesses had shuttered up during COVID-19, and there were very few tourists around.

I could not find the Coconut Resort on the Agoda or booking.com websites so I ended up at the New Hut at the north end of Hat Lamai which was recommended in the Lonely Planet guide. I had booked it while waiting in Surat Thani waiting for my bus ride.

My moto-taxi driver dropped me off in front of the New Hut Bungalows which had colorful strings of bungalows along the beach as well as a wonderful restaurant and shop.

I was glad to get here after two very long travel days and a night on the train.  The shower was wonderful as was the view.  

The Coconut Resorts I use to stay at was closed with just a few of the bungalows remaining so the New Hut bungalows work out pretty well with a view of the water and A/C. No TV, but that is OK since the internet works well.

A storm brought big waves, a high surf that threw up sand and water into parts of the New Hut Restaurant.  

I started walking out into the surf, but it was too strong for safe swimming.

Again, there are few places open, but some of the resort people and restaurants that were open thought there were more tourists that were now beginning to come to Ko Samui.

At night, this entertainment venue was practically empty as the band played on.

I enjoyed the food choices at the New Hut restaurant near the turbulent surf.

After three days in Hat Lamai, Loy, the owner of the New Hut, gave me a ride north to the Bo Phut area and the Ibis Resort Hotel.  I will be staying here for three nights from the 6th to the 9th.  It is at the north end of Ko Samui with lots of tourist attractions.  The place is probably the nicest place I will stay at with a 60% discount—$34 USD per night.  It has a pool with a large beachfront, a restaurant, and a bar with a very calm, blue bay.

The Ibis Resort is one of many resorts that are along the bay all the way west about a mile from the popular Fisherman’s Village which has a cluster of shops and restaurants, many of them fronting on the beach.  Many of these restaurants serve meals in the sandy area between their restaurant and the Gulf of Thailand.  The traditional triangle-shaped Thai loungers have mostly been replaced by big bean bags of all shapes where diners enjoy drinks and meals as the sun sets while in the sandy beach area.

Many of the restaurants featured live bands competing for the few customers.

After my dinner, I began walking home and got halfway back when the skies opened up with a big downpour.   

To stay dry, I opted for an hour massage.  After that, it was still raining so I then got a foot massage.  The rain stopped and I returned back to the Ibis Resort and found that they had closed up their restaurant and bar at 7 pm—because they had few customers.

During the day, I enjoyed taking some dips in the bathtub warm waters and then lounging under the shade of the palm trees and beach umbrellas while reading a novel.  I ended up with a mild sunburn despite staying in the shade for two days of lounging about.  

When I returned to the Fisherman’s Village, I noticed that the prices were 1/3 less in those restaurants that did not front on the beach.

I booked a boat to Ko Tao on February 9th which is a small island north and popular for diving.  Dr. Pacharee, my Thai dentist, recommended it.

The minibus picked me up at the Ibis Resort along with other tourists—most were Russian tourists—for the short drive to our speedboat.  The total cost of this minibus and the one-hour boat ride was 750 Baht—$23 USD.

On the way to Ko Tao, we passed by Ko Pha Ngan Island which is most popular for its all-night Full Moon parties at the Hat Rim beach.

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