When I arrived at the forested National Park, there was just a closed shack of a bus station and unlike my map, I had of possible places to stay there were just woods and the three expensive National Park Hotels. I decided my best plan would be to pay the extra expense of staying at one of these hotels. After checking two of them which I learned were closed because of drop-in tourists because of COVID 19, I ended up staying two nights at the Hotel Jerzero at a cost of $125 per night—a bit high compared to my usual $20 per night for a dorm bed. At least it included a Park pass and breakfast.
The recommended route is to start at the top of the upper lake and walk down on the handcrafted walkways—some were over-rushing water. To get there, they have these elephant train buses (from St 2 to St 3) that take you to the top of Lake Ciginovac. The elevated walkway skirts the edge of the lake where the frogs serenade you amidst the floating straws of water grasses.
I continued down to Lake Okrugljak where I began to experience the waterfalls and cascades that flowed into one turquoise or emerald lake after another. Here are some of the images of my experiences during this 9-mile journey along the trail and wooden walkways.
At the end of the upper lake walk, I took an electric ferry boat provided by the National Park the length of Lake Koziak, some 4km to a park concession area. I then left there to hike up to the Lower Lake bus stop (St1) which returned me to the bus stop (St 2) next to my Hotel Jezero.
After a soak in the whirlpool spa, I had a set dinner of cheese-stuffed bacon and veal smothered in mushroom sauce and gnocchi at the hotel restaurant.
The following morning I took the elephant train back to where I had left off the day before at the St 1 bus stop and began my hike down to the lower lakes which would culminate at the tallest waterfall in Croatia—Velika Slap.
From there I backtracked to the park concession area and caught the ferry boat back to the start of the upper lake trail.
I retraced my hike of the day before and again enjoyed seeing these amazing lakes, waterfalls, and cascades. After a hike of about 10 miles, I returned to the St 3 bus stop for a return ride back to my Hotel Jezero at St 2.
Once again the whirlpool spa soothed my tired legs before having a trout dinner.
Although I had considered taking a later bus to Zadar the following day, I awoke to some rain so I decided it would be more comfortable riding the 9:30 AM bus to Zadar in the rain rather than hiking in the rain.
This appears to be a delightful day. Thanks for the blog.
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